Bandhni - Tie and Dye
Bandhni is an ancient art practised by the Craftsmen of Rajasthan and Gujarat. Bandhni work involves tying and dyeing of cotton or silk cloth. The main colours used in Bandhni are yellow, red, green and black. Each state has particular areas and each caste and each tribe has its special design.
Bandhni dyeing is done by the tie-resist method, the patterns are made up of innumerable dots. Men do the dyeing while women do the tying, which is very intricately done, each dot is as tiny as a pin-head. The women, who do the tying, lift a small portion of the fabric and tightly tie a thread around it. The tied textiles are then dipped in the light colour while the tied areas retain the original ground colour. If a second dye is required, the areas to be retained in the first dye are tied for resist and the cloth dipped in a darker dye. This process is repeated, if several colours are to be combined. After the processing is over, the final product of Bandhni work, results into variety of symbols including, dots, squares, waves and strips. The final Bandhni is known by various names depending on the design. The designs are called "Khombi", "Ghar Chola", "Patori" and "Chandrokhani."
The work of Bandhni is exclusively done by the Muslim Khatri Community of Kutch.