About Ikkat Weaving:
In the state of Andhra Pradesh the Ikkat process is known as ‘pagdu bandu’ ‘buddavassi’ and ‘chitki’. The oldest ikkat centre in this state is Chirala. The introduction of tie and dye technique into Pochampalli area was as late as the beginning of the century. Today Nalgonda district near Hyderabad with Pochampalli, Puttapaka, Koyyalagudem, Velanki, Sripuram and other localities are the main centers of Ikkat weaving in Andhra Pradesh. Ikkat Tie and dye yarn weaving is also used in the states of Gujarat and Orrisa.
Brilliant colour schemes and geometric or floral designs in Ikkat are popularly used by interior designers for furnishing fabrics, dress materials and elegant cotton and silk Sarees. The processes of tie and dye design require the fixing of the designs and patterns before the warp and weft are coloured. The threads forming the design are tied and dyed repeatedly to bring in the right colour at the right place and the interlacement of the threads produces the design on the fabric. The dyeing over the warp and weft are spread out for weaving on a loom. As patterns and designs emerge they impart elegance and beauty to the woven fabric. Tie and dye techniques may be applied on the warp threads (warp Ikkat) or the weft threads (weft Ikkat) either of which is called single Ikkat or they may be applied on warp and weft threads in such a way that the two designs overlap each other called double Ikat. In single as well as double Ikkat, warp and weft threads which are tied and dyed as per design should not only be positioned accurately in proper sequence in weaving as required by the design and its colour scheme but also should be accurately secured to prevent shifting, displacing or entangling. With this highly sophisticated Ikkat technique complicated motifs appear exactly the same on either side of the fabric.
Master Weaver: A G Govardhan
A. G. Govardhan hailing from Andhra Pradesh, is a master weaver specializing in Ikkat handloom weaving as long practiced in the state. Born in a family of traditional weavers, who have been involved in Ikkat weaving for the past 75 years, Shri Govardhan’s specialty is weaving the Telia Rumaal, which requires immense skill to execute. Shri Govardhan has been spreading awareness of Ikkat through lectures and demonstrations in different cities in India and abroad.
Shri Govardhan has received many awards for his work
1) Govt. of India honored Shri. Govardhan with the National Award in 1983
2) He received UNESCO Award of Excellence for Handicrafts in 2002
3) National Master Weaver Award in 2006
4) He was honored with Shilp Guru Award in 2007
5) The President of India awarded him with Padma Shri Award in 2011 for excellence in Ikkat weaving.
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